It was with some regret that we left Chili Beach, but there are always more challenges ahead.
This a the Wenlock crossing again where we decided to take on some water straight from the river to replace the water we used at Chili.
Back on the PDR we headed north as far as Bramwell Station where we staed for the night.
What a magic place this is! Lots of space, great facilities and a bar and restaurant.
They also have a pet brolga which found itself locked into the small cemetery plot.
Friday, June 22, 2012
Cape York - Chili Beach
Leaving Coen we headed up the PDR and found out why people tell you to pay attention to the "Dip" signs - some of them are horrendous!
After a few klms we took on fuel at Archer River where the fuel price had risen to $2.20 a litre. Not really happy about that but what can you do apart from pay it.
We took the Lockhart River turnoff to Chili Beach and soon found more river crossings. This one is the Wenlock River and despite the crocodile warnings we found some people (on the far bank) letting their kids play in the water.
We had a chat with them about conditions and whether we could hit the Frenchman's Track on the way out. They took one look at my A/T tyres and said that I wouldn't make it.
Bugger!
We stopped for lunch soon after and this is Karen, Simone and Greg.
We soon entered the Iron Range NP and passed the tallest peak in the area.
Once through the range itself we again found ourselves in a varying landscape of rainforest then eucalypt forest and then some lush green meadows like the one below.
Strange place indeed, but interesting.
We found the Chili Beach camp area and set up home for a few nights. This is our place below.
And this is the other side of the site with direct access to the beach itself.
We had brought firewood in with us but we found that coconuts also make a great fuel for the camp fire
Just up the coast from Chili is the small town (and bay) of Portland Roads. There is a really nice little cafe there serving all sorts of home cooked delights. We had coffees with a lemon cheesecake and a frozen chocolate pecan pie. Yummy beyond belief, and the view from the balcony was gorgeous - check it out!
The place was a tropical paradise.
. . . . . but not for some people. The history of the place is not always kind.
We also took a drive into the indigenous community at Lockhart River to buy a couple of things.
I have to say that this was the tidiest and cleanest aboriginal camp we have seen. Perhaps it is the fact that it is a dry camp that makes the difference.
Back at camp we found that Simone had been practicing her damper baking and had produced a magnificant loaf to accompany dinner that night.
Chili Beach - well I had to take a few photos just to record what it is like.
This is the northern end at low tide where there are some large boulders on the sand
And looking towards the south you get a different view - all white sand, blue ocean and coconuts.
After a few klms we took on fuel at Archer River where the fuel price had risen to $2.20 a litre. Not really happy about that but what can you do apart from pay it.
We took the Lockhart River turnoff to Chili Beach and soon found more river crossings. This one is the Wenlock River and despite the crocodile warnings we found some people (on the far bank) letting their kids play in the water.
We had a chat with them about conditions and whether we could hit the Frenchman's Track on the way out. They took one look at my A/T tyres and said that I wouldn't make it.
Bugger!
We stopped for lunch soon after and this is Karen, Simone and Greg.
We soon entered the Iron Range NP and passed the tallest peak in the area.
Once through the range itself we again found ourselves in a varying landscape of rainforest then eucalypt forest and then some lush green meadows like the one below.
Strange place indeed, but interesting.
We found the Chili Beach camp area and set up home for a few nights. This is our place below.
And this is the other side of the site with direct access to the beach itself.
We had brought firewood in with us but we found that coconuts also make a great fuel for the camp fire
Just up the coast from Chili is the small town (and bay) of Portland Roads. There is a really nice little cafe there serving all sorts of home cooked delights. We had coffees with a lemon cheesecake and a frozen chocolate pecan pie. Yummy beyond belief, and the view from the balcony was gorgeous - check it out!
The place was a tropical paradise.
. . . . . but not for some people. The history of the place is not always kind.
We also took a drive into the indigenous community at Lockhart River to buy a couple of things.
I have to say that this was the tidiest and cleanest aboriginal camp we have seen. Perhaps it is the fact that it is a dry camp that makes the difference.
Back at camp we found that Simone had been practicing her damper baking and had produced a magnificant loaf to accompany dinner that night.
Chili Beach - well I had to take a few photos just to record what it is like.
This is the northern end at low tide where there are some large boulders on the sand
And looking towards the south you get a different view - all white sand, blue ocean and coconuts.
Cape York - Coen
Greg commented that the Patrol was blowing a lot of black smoke and it is certainly chewing through the fuel so when we reached Coen I had the local mechanic take a look at it.
He couldn't find anything obviously wrong so we decided to stop the night and camp out the back of the Exchange Hotel. Some wag has added an "S" to the name up on the roof though!
Camping fees were $5 per person and we ended up having a few beers in the pub anyway.
The next morning we had suffered the heaviest dew I can remember and it was COLD too. Time to move on!
He couldn't find anything obviously wrong so we decided to stop the night and camp out the back of the Exchange Hotel. Some wag has added an "S" to the name up on the roof though!
Camping fees were $5 per person and we ended up having a few beers in the pub anyway.
The next morning we had suffered the heaviest dew I can remember and it was COLD too. Time to move on!
Cape York - Lakefield
We spent a few nights in Cooktown (see previous posts) and then decided to head off to the top of Cape York with a couple we met in Cairns - Simone and Greg. They were leaving their van in Cooktown and tenting in just the same way that were plan to go.
The morning we left I spotted a few shafts of sunlight beaming through the trees and couldn't resist taking a photo or two.
This one has a wallaby sitting in the middle of a clearing - pretty eh?
On the other side of the van park were a stand of melaleucas (paperbark trees) and I tok a pic of those as well.
We headed north down the Battle Camp track and into Lakefield National Park. It is a beautiful place and we were amazed at how the vegetation could change within a few metres depending upon the soil .
We also started to come across the first of the river crossings we would see on this part of the trip.
This one was important because not only was it the first, but because it is the Laura River and our daughter is Laura it made us think a bit.
Well the actual crossing was not exactly difficult as you can see below, but all these crossings demand some respect as you never know how soft that sand might be!
Yeah - I couldn't resist taking a photo of Karen at the river's edge.
We camped the night at the Kalpowar river crossing and came across the injustices of the new QLD e-booking system in action for the first time.People not knowing about the new system and other people occupying booked sites etc - the whole thing is a joke.
We drove on the next day and checked in at the old Laura Homestead. The place is well preserved and worth a look to see how people lived then.
Check out the old Chevy Blitz truck!
As you see, the building was functional rather than pretty.
Moving on we came a cross the White Lily Lagoon. Well, the lillies could have been more in bloom, but this gives you an idea of how it looks.
In the distance you may be able to spot the Magpie Geese and the white crane we saw too.
After White Lily we came across Red Lily Lagoon - the water depth is much less and is suitable only for the red lillies.
We hit our first almost difficult river crossing at the Morehead River (yes, that is the correct spelling - there is probably a tale to be told there!) although it was not the water that caused us the fun but the deep soft sand on the approach.
This pic is of G&S getting down through the sand in their Hilux.
Driving on we came across the Nifold Plain which is a wide and generally boring grassy plain relieved only by the termite mounds that were everywhere.
At the end of the plain we hit the Saltwater Creek. This was a deeper and wider crossing than any before, but nothing too difficult. Pretty place though.
We left the Lakefield NP and drove out onto the Peninsular Developmental Road (PDR) at Musgrave where we stopped at the roadhouse for a coffee and a tea - instant coffee and a tea bag for $4 each.
Fuel prices were going up too with diesel costing $1.83 a litre.
They don't use this old pump any more though!
The morning we left I spotted a few shafts of sunlight beaming through the trees and couldn't resist taking a photo or two.
This one has a wallaby sitting in the middle of a clearing - pretty eh?
On the other side of the van park were a stand of melaleucas (paperbark trees) and I tok a pic of those as well.
We headed north down the Battle Camp track and into Lakefield National Park. It is a beautiful place and we were amazed at how the vegetation could change within a few metres depending upon the soil .
We also started to come across the first of the river crossings we would see on this part of the trip.
This one was important because not only was it the first, but because it is the Laura River and our daughter is Laura it made us think a bit.
Well the actual crossing was not exactly difficult as you can see below, but all these crossings demand some respect as you never know how soft that sand might be!
Yeah - I couldn't resist taking a photo of Karen at the river's edge.
We camped the night at the Kalpowar river crossing and came across the injustices of the new QLD e-booking system in action for the first time.People not knowing about the new system and other people occupying booked sites etc - the whole thing is a joke.
We drove on the next day and checked in at the old Laura Homestead. The place is well preserved and worth a look to see how people lived then.
Check out the old Chevy Blitz truck!
As you see, the building was functional rather than pretty.
Moving on we came a cross the White Lily Lagoon. Well, the lillies could have been more in bloom, but this gives you an idea of how it looks.
In the distance you may be able to spot the Magpie Geese and the white crane we saw too.
After White Lily we came across Red Lily Lagoon - the water depth is much less and is suitable only for the red lillies.
We hit our first almost difficult river crossing at the Morehead River (yes, that is the correct spelling - there is probably a tale to be told there!) although it was not the water that caused us the fun but the deep soft sand on the approach.
This pic is of G&S getting down through the sand in their Hilux.
Driving on we came across the Nifold Plain which is a wide and generally boring grassy plain relieved only by the termite mounds that were everywhere.
At the end of the plain we hit the Saltwater Creek. This was a deeper and wider crossing than any before, but nothing too difficult. Pretty place though.
We left the Lakefield NP and drove out onto the Peninsular Developmental Road (PDR) at Musgrave where we stopped at the roadhouse for a coffee and a tea - instant coffee and a tea bag for $4 each.
Fuel prices were going up too with diesel costing $1.83 a litre.
They don't use this old pump any more though!
Friday, June 1, 2012
Cooktown 2
Our second day in Cooktown and we decided to take a drive down the Bloomfield Track as far as Bloomfield Falls (or Wujal Wujal as we are supposed to call it these days - pfft) and take a look at what the world looked like down there.
Well, varied and interesting is it in a nutshell, but the weather was still not playing nicely. I do hope that all this rain doesn't close any of the roads on the Cape or make things too difficult.
Anyway, these first couple of pictures are of Keating's Lagoon. The first one shows some of the flooded melaleucas (told you it had been raining) and the second is of the lillies just starting to flower in the lagoon.
The drive down the Track was easy enough. It is well graded and around 60% bitumen so we just whirred along until we reached the walk to the Bloomfield Falls where we found the positive side of all this rain - a pumping waterfall!
The river crossing heading towards the Daintree was flowing well.
As we headed "home" we couldn't resist dropping into the Lion's Den pub for a beer. The place is a beaut old pub, but as it is so easy to get to (there were caravans parked out in the back paddock) some of the challenge and the mystique has gone.
Leaving the Track to find some more interesting things we headed towards Point Archer where we spotted a lighthouse - well, we couldn't leave that one alone could we?
We also watched some really cool kite surfers doing their thing in the bay. They were really skilled.
Well, varied and interesting is it in a nutshell, but the weather was still not playing nicely. I do hope that all this rain doesn't close any of the roads on the Cape or make things too difficult.
Anyway, these first couple of pictures are of Keating's Lagoon. The first one shows some of the flooded melaleucas (told you it had been raining) and the second is of the lillies just starting to flower in the lagoon.
The drive down the Track was easy enough. It is well graded and around 60% bitumen so we just whirred along until we reached the walk to the Bloomfield Falls where we found the positive side of all this rain - a pumping waterfall!
The river crossing heading towards the Daintree was flowing well.
As we headed "home" we couldn't resist dropping into the Lion's Den pub for a beer. The place is a beaut old pub, but as it is so easy to get to (there were caravans parked out in the back paddock) some of the challenge and the mystique has gone.
Leaving the Track to find some more interesting things we headed towards Point Archer where we spotted a lighthouse - well, we couldn't leave that one alone could we?
We also watched some really cool kite surfers doing their thing in the bay. They were really skilled.
Cooktown
We left Cairns with our newly powered up Troll dragging the near 2.5 tonne van up the twisting and steep Kuranda Range. We held up a few cars, but we climbed the range with few problems although we did spew much more black smoke than we have done before.
Hmmmm.
We overnighted just north of Mount Molloy at a free site and we walked back into town to buy a beer at the pub. The National Hotel is a nice pub, but it started ouring with rain while we were there and we walked home and got soaked.
One of the things we have always enjoyed is seeing the different "rigs" that people have in which they travel around, well this one was particularly interesting:
Yes, it is a small garden shed on the back of a ute, complete with a veranda.
On our way into Cooktown we drove through the Black Mountain Nat Park. I had been looking forward to this, but seeing these hills of black rock blocks seemingly jumbled into a couple of hills was less impressive than I thought it would be.
We arrived in Cooktown around midday and headed to the Peninsula van park before we took a look around the town itself.
We drove up to the top of the grassy hill (of James Cook fame) to check out the lighthouse. Surprisingly, instead of being built of huge masonry it is built of roofing iron.
The views from the top!
This one is out over the town
The Endeavour river
Out to the Coral Sea.
This will give you an idea of the weather we have been "enjoying". Yeah - that rain just doesn't want to go away.
We took a walk through the old Cooktown cemetery and looked for the older gravestones. Some of the stories that they told will break your heart.
Hmmmm.
We overnighted just north of Mount Molloy at a free site and we walked back into town to buy a beer at the pub. The National Hotel is a nice pub, but it started ouring with rain while we were there and we walked home and got soaked.
One of the things we have always enjoyed is seeing the different "rigs" that people have in which they travel around, well this one was particularly interesting:
Yes, it is a small garden shed on the back of a ute, complete with a veranda.
On our way into Cooktown we drove through the Black Mountain Nat Park. I had been looking forward to this, but seeing these hills of black rock blocks seemingly jumbled into a couple of hills was less impressive than I thought it would be.
We arrived in Cooktown around midday and headed to the Peninsula van park before we took a look around the town itself.
We drove up to the top of the grassy hill (of James Cook fame) to check out the lighthouse. Surprisingly, instead of being built of huge masonry it is built of roofing iron.
The views from the top!
This one is out over the town
The Endeavour river
Out to the Coral Sea.
This will give you an idea of the weather we have been "enjoying". Yeah - that rain just doesn't want to go away.
We took a walk through the old Cooktown cemetery and looked for the older gravestones. Some of the stories that they told will break your heart.
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